Glossary of Fragrance Terms

Welcome to our Glossary of Fragrance Terms, where we explore the wonderful world of scent in a casual and informative way.

Master these terms and become a perfume aficionado in a jiffy.

Got a handle on fragrance notes? But can you differentiate between colognes and perfume extracts? Or tell gourmand scents apart from oriental scents? If not, don’t worry, we’ve got you covered.

We’ve compiled the ultimate fragrance glossary, so you can truly become the perfume expert you’re meant to be.

Explore and discover the fascinating language of fragrance with us!

ABSOLUTE – The Absolute of the natural ingredient obtained through alcoholic extraction of the concrete, bring a unique and authentic character to fragrances.

ACCORDS – Accords are created by blending fragrance materials together to form perfectly balanced compositions in odour intensity that normally result in a pleasing effect. Whether it’s the allure of naturals or the versatility of synthetics, accords have their place in the art of perfumery forming essential building blocks for perfumes.

AFTERSHAVE – Aftershave was originally used to close open pores after shaving. It still has a bit of oil in it. It’s great for a quick burst of fragrance in the morning, but you might want to use a matching Eau de Toilette to make it stronger. 

ALCOHOL – A key ingredient in perfumed products, where an aqueous ethanol carrier is used. The concentration of perfume in these products can range from approximately 2% for lighter eau de colognes to around 40% – 45% for more concentrated extraits.

ALDEHYDIC – An odour descriptor for the strong scent resulting from the use of larger quantities of aliphatic aldehydes, such as Aldehyde C10, in fragrances. These aldehydes contribute to a bold and intensely unique aroma.

ALLERGENS – Perfumes typically contain a blend of fragrance ingredients, which can include natural extracts, essential oils, and synthetic compounds. Some of these ingredients, such as limonene, linalool, and coumarin, have been identified as potential allergens. Allergens trigger allergic reactions in susceptible individuals. This article explores the most common allergens found in perfumes.

AMBER – We use the term amber to describe blends that are created using natural plant extracts like Labdanum or synthetic ingredients such as Cedramber. Such blends got their name because they were initially designed to replicate the delightful scent of Ambergris.

AMBERGRIS – Ambergris is a secretion from sperm whales that they create to shield their stomachs from the beaks of the cuttlefish they consume. In the past, Ambergris was commonly used as a fixative, but, synthetic versions like Ambroxan are now used. Ambergris is known for its pleasant scent that combines sweetness with a mineral, fresh, woody aroma.

ANIMAL – This term is used to describe animal-derived ingredients. In the past, animal-based materials such as true ambergris, civet, castoreum or deer musk were used to create a delightful, musky scent. However, nowadays, these animal ingredients are typically substituted with synthetic alternatives.

ANOSMIA – Is the inability to perceive odors, whether it’s a general difficulty or specific to certain molecules. It can be inherited genetically, caused by certain medications, or a result of nasal damage, but typically relates to a loss of smell.

ARCTANDER – Steffan Arctander is the author of the highly acclaimed Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

AROMA – A term used to describe a sensation which is between smell and taste; such as the aroma of freshly baked bread or coffee.

AROMA CHEMICALS – Aroma chemicals, also known as odorants are derived from both natural plant extracts and synthetic formulations that mimic natural scents. Synthetic aroma chemicals provide perfumers with a wide range of options for creating customised fragrances. Aroma chemicals are widely used in cosmetics, skincare, haircare, personal care and household cleaning products to enhance their scent profiles. They are volatile enough to be transmitted through the air to the olfactory system in the nose. These compounds can be found in various sources such as fruits, spices, perfumes and essential oils. Aroma chemicals play a significant role in enhancing the flavours and fragrances of food and cosmetic products.

AROMATIC COMPOUNDS – Aromatic compounds usually refers to organic materials with a chemistry typified by benzene and cyclically conjugated.

AROMATIC – Aromatic comes from the way molecules used to be categorised based on their smell, before we understood their overall chemical properties. Aromatic fragrances often have a mix of herbal scents such as mint, rosemary, sage, lavender along with other botanical elements.

AROMATHERAPY – Aromatherapy is a natural healing technique that harnesses the power of plant extracts to boost overall wellness and bring about a sense of positivity and balance.

ATTAR – Attar, derived from the Arabic word ‘itr’, means fragrance or perfume in English. The production of a classic attar involves distilling the concentrated essence of flowers or other scented substances in a base of oil, typically Sandalwood. These traditional attars are crafted solely from natural ingredients and are devoid of any additional alcohol.

BALANCE – A blend of fragrance notes in which none of the individual notes overpower the others, resulting in a harmonious and well-rounded scent experience. This skillful combination creates a pleasant olfactory harmony, ensuring that no single note dominates the overall composition.

BASE – Perfume industry jargon can be a bit confusing, especially when it comes to the term base. In the perfume world, it can refer to two things: (1) a balanced sub-unit or building block of a fragrance that includes top, middle, and end-notes, unlike an accord, and (2) the unscented medium, like melt & pour soap. So, whether you’re talking about the foundation of a perfume or the unperfumed base materials, understanding these distinctions is key.

BASE NOTES – The substantive part of a perfume that consists of the less volatile components of the fragrance composition. These notes often have a crystalline, resinous, or high relative molecular mass liquid nature, which contributes to their low volatility. These are the fragrance notes that we can smell as the perfume enters the final part of the dry-down phase on the skin.

BOTTLE NOTE – The first whiff of a fragrant product when you pop open the bottle. It’s the initial scent that hits your nose, combining the perfume with the base chemicals used in manufacturing products like shampoo. 

BOTTOM NOTES – Also referred to as Base Notes. The substantive part of a perfume that consists of the less volatile components of the fragrance composition. These notes often have a crystalline, resinous, or high relative molecular mass liquid nature, which contributes to their low volatility. These are the fragrance notes that we can smell as the perfume enters the final part of the dry-down phase on the skin.

BRIEF – A document that captures the customer’s specific perfume requirements following consultation and prior to perfume creation.

CARRIER – A carrier is a base ingredient that is used to control the concentration of a fragrance composition and enhance the evaporation and diffusion of the fragrance materials. Ethanol or Perfumers Alcohol is the preferred carrier for perfumes. However, if you’re using essential oils and/or making a Perfume Oil, you can also use natural oils like Fractionated Coconut Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil or Jojoba Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil as carriers.

CHYPRE – Chypre is a fragrance category encompassing a range of scents characterized by a mossy and woody foundation. Derived from the aromas found on the island of Cyprus, chypre fragrances feature a compelling blend of sharp patchouli and oakmoss base notes, complemented by hints of citrus.

CITRUS – Composing of oils from lemon, lime, orange, bergamot, grapefruit or mandarin, the citrus family adds a refreshing and vibrant touch to the top notes of fragrances. With their fresh, clean, and bright characteristics, citrus notes bring a sense of liveliness and rejuvenation to a fragrance composition. Incorporating citrus oils into perfumes creates an uplifting and invigorating experience.

COLD PRESSED – Citrus oils are extracted through a cold process that involves rasping or compressing the outer skin of fruits like lemon, orange, and bergamot. This method, often referred to as ‘cold pressed,’ is used to release the oil without degrading its quality. Unlike steam distillation, which would harm the citrus oils, this gentle approach helps to preserve their fragrance.

CONCENTRATION – Fragrance oil concentration is the amount of oil present in a finished perfume. The strength and category of a fragrance depend on the fragrance oil concentration level. The fragrance gets purer as the concentration goes up – more perfume oils and less alcohol will reflect the price of the fragrance, which is why perfume extracts are more expensive than colognes.

CONCRETE – The extraction process that uses hydrocarbons to extract aromatic compounds from plant material. It results in a concentrated and highly fragrant substance called a concrete. Perfect for adding a strong and long-lasting scent to perfumes and other fragrances. Concretes are commonly subjected to an additional purification step by rinsing them with alcohol and concentrating them to create an absolute. This process helps to remove any impurities and enhance the concentration of the desired aromatic compounds. By undergoing this rigorous purification process, concretes can be transformed into high-quality absolutes that are widely used in perfumery and aromatherapy.

CUIR – This is the french term for Leather.

DISTILLATION – Distillation is an extraction method used to obtain aromatic compounds from plants through steam evaporation. This technique allows for the isolation of valuable constituents such as essential oils, which find applications in various industries including perfumery, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. By harnessing the power of steam, distillation serves as an efficient and environmentally friendly method for capturing the essence of plants and harnessing their aromatic potential.

DIFFUSIVE – Diffusion in perfume refers to the process by which fragrance molecules spread and disperse in the air. 

DRY DOWN – The dry down happens when the scent is in its final stages of wearing. It’s when the heart notes mix with the base notes and start to stick around and become prominent.

EAU DE COLOGNE – A term used to describe fragrances that typically have a concentration ranging from 2% to 5% of fragrance oil mixed with alcohol.

EAU DE TOILETTE – A term used to describe fragrances that typically have a concentration ranging from 5% to 15% of fragrance oil mixed with alcohol.

EAU DE PARFUM – A term used to describe fragrances that typically have a concentration ranging from 15% to 20% of fragrance oil mixed with alcohol.

EAU FRAICHE – A term used to describe fragrances that typically have a concentration ranging from 1% to 3% of fragrance oil mixed with alcohol. An Eau Fraiche might just be what you need if you want a gentle and breezy fragrance that won’t overwhelm or break the bank. It’s particularly great for those with extra sensitive skin due to its low oil concentration. Just keep in mind that you’ll need to reapply it a few times during the day to fully enjoy its essence.

ENFLEURAGE – Extracting essential oils and perfumes from flowers can be done through enfleurage. This process involves using odorless fats from animals or plants.

EPICES – This is the french term for Spices.

ESSENTIAL OIL – Essential oil is the concentrated essence extracted from plant material through the process of steam distillation. This fragrant oil carries the natural aroma of the plant and is often used in perfumes, aromatherapy, and cosmetic products.

EXTRACT – A concentrated extract is made by taking something natural and capturing its aroma to represent the original source. These extracts can also be made in a lab to guarantee consistency and sustainability.

EXTRAIT – In the world of perfumery, extrait refers to the process of extraction ‘perfume extract’. When it comes to buying fragrances, an extrait is the cream of the crop in terms of concentration. It packs a punch with concentrations up to 45%

FIXATIVE – A key component in perfumery, a fixative is used to extend the longevity of a fragrance by slowing down the evaporation rate of volatile ingredients. This helps to create a more balanced and long-lasting scent experience. Fixatives are typically made up of molecules with low vapor pressure, such as resinous, crystalline, or high relative molecular mass liquids.

FORMULA – The list of ingredients and their proportions needed to create the perfect scent. Whether you’re blending essential oils or concocting a perfume, the formula is your road map to the desired odour effect. So grab your measuring tools and get mixing, because with the right formula, you’ll be smelling amazing in no time!

FOUGÈRE – Fougère fragrances, which get their name from the French word for fern, are green and aromatic herbal scents commonly found in men’s colognes. These scents typically include notes of lavender, oakmoss, citrus, and woods.

FRESH – Fresh fragrances contain scents that remind you of citrus fruits, water, and green elements. You’ll often notice the uplifting aromas of lemon, bergamot, lime, and orange in these fragrances.

GOURMAND – In perfumery, the term gourmand is used to categorize sweet fragrances made for people with a love for all things sugary. These scents have irresistible and edible notes like honey, chocolate, or caramel. They give off a warm vibe and are often blended with other base notes like patchouli.

HEAD NOTES – Also referred to as top notes are the initial fragrant components of a perfume formulation, characterised by their molecular lightness and the first impression they create upon smelling the composition.

HEADSPACE– Is the air above or surrounding a fragrant substance that contains volatile compounds. When we sample and analyze this vapour, it is called Headspace Analysis. In simpler terms, it’s like capturing the essence of a fragrance and examining its components.

HEART NOTES – Also referred to as Middle Notes, create the heart of the perfume, the main theme that emerges after the top notes fade. These notes linger on the skin for a few hours, adding depth and character to the fragrance.

HEDONIC – The delightful and pleasurable sensation experienced in relation to fragrance. Whether it’s the captivating scent of blooming flowers or the alluring aroma of a fine perfume, the hedonic aspect of fragrance is all about the pure enjoyment and pleasure it brings to our senses. So go ahead, embrace the hedonic side of fragrance and indulge in the delightful sensations it has to offer.

HESPERIDIC – Used to describe the essential oils obtained from citrus fruits. Oranges, Lemons, Limes and Grapefruit are all common examples of hesperidia. A hesperidium (hesperidia) is a modified berry with a tough, leathery rind.

HYPOSMIA – This refers to a reduced ability to smell, not a total loss of smell.

LAYERING – Mixing different scents together is all about creating fresh and unique personalised fragrances – that’s what layering is all about! We love layering Perfume Extract No.1 Velvet with Creed Aventus 🙂 You should give it a go yourself!

MACERATION – This is a method where hot fat is used to extract the essence from the natural material (usually flowers). After that, they’re dissolved in alcohol and left to sit for a few weeks at a lower temperature until the extract is good to go. It was traditionally used for flowers that didn’t have a high yield through distillation. This process is commonly confused with maturation which is a completely different process.

MATURATION – Maturation in perfume refers to the amount of time it takes for a perfume concentrate to mature or reach its maximum potential before being mixed into a base. During maturation, the perfume’s ingredients blend together and undergo chemical reactions, resulting in a more balanced and harmonious scent. Several factors influence the maturation process in perfume. The concentration and quality of ingredients, storage conditions, exposure to light and air all contribute to the development of the fragrance. Perfumers carefully consider the process of maturation to achieve the desired outcome of the finished formula. Often confused and referred to as maceration which is a completely different process.

MIDDLE NOTES – Also referred to as Heart Notes, create the heart of the perfume, the main theme that emerges after the top notes fade. These notes linger on the skin for a few hours, adding depth and character to the fragrance.

MUGUET – This is a term used in the fragrance industry to describe a scent that resembles the delicate and sweet aroma of Lily of the Valley flowers. This term is commonly used in perfumery to classify fragrances that have a fresh and floral scent profile. Enjoy the refreshing and enchanting fragrance of MUGUET ‘Lily of the Valley’ in your favorite perfumes and scented products.

MUSK – Musk is a class of aromatic substance, often used as a foundation scent in perfume. It comes from things like the musk deer’s glandular secretions, various plants that give off similar smells, and man-made substances with similar odours. Musk used to only refer to this stinky stuff from the musk deer gland, but it’s been used in perfumes since ancient times for its superb fixative properties.

NATURAL – A term used in the fragrance industry to describe any perfume ingredient derived from natural, non-synthetic sources. These ingredients are often extracted from plants, flowers, fruits, or other organic materials. 

NICHE – A niche fragrance is a perfume that is made in limited amounts and sold at specialty boutiques or online stores, rather than being widely manufactured and sold in department stores. Niche fragrances are all about being exclusive and unique, unlike the more common mainstream scents. Niche perfumes often use rare and top-notch ingredients, resulting in complex and unusual multi-layered scents.

OLFACTORY – Relating to the sense of smell. This term is commonly used in discussions about fragrances and perfumes, as it describes anything that is connected with or pertains to the sense of smell. In a formal context, olfactory is used to describe scientific studies or research related to smell, while in a personal context, it can be used to describe personal experiences or preferences relating to scents.

OLFACTIVE FAMILIES – A frequently used classification system that categorises perfumes according to their dominant notes. Families include aromatic, chypre, citrus, floral, fougère, leather, oriental and woody.

ORIENTAL – Oriental scents belong to a popular fragrance group characterised by warm and spicy notes. Common ingredients in this category include amber, vanilla, Tonka bean, and benzoin.

OUD – Sometimes spelled Oudh. Oud comes from the resin of the Aquilaria tree, which gets released when the tree faces attacks from pathogens. It has a rich and deep aroma, with hints of earthiness, woodiness, leather and even tobacco. It’s a complex scent that carries a mysterious darkness to it as well as a hefty price tag.

OZONIC – Aroma chemicals that imitate the scent of fresh air are commonly referred to as Ozonic – capturing the essence of the air right after a thunderstorm is how these molecules can be best described.

PAMPLEMOUSSE – This is the french term for Grapefruit.

PARFUM – The most concentrated form of fragrance, parfum typically contains a high percentage ranging from 20% to 40% fragrance oil blended with alcohol. This term, derived from France, is synonymous with Perfume.

PAROSMIA – Refers to a distorted perception of odours.

PERFUME – Perfumes are defined as liquid substances that when sprayed can emit and diffuse a pleasant and fragrant odour. Perfumes are formed by blending fragrant essential oils derived from plants and spices and synthetic aromatic compounds and chemicals with alcohol. People use perfume as a cosmetic fragrance to smell good.

PIVOINE – This is the french term for Peony.

POIVRE – This is the French term for Pepper.

RAW MATERIALS – In perfumery, raw materials or raw ingredients refer to the natural or synthetic materials used to make a perfume. 

RESINOID – A highly concentrated fragrant substance obtained from plant resin through the process of extraction using volatile solvents. Resinoids form the starting block for the creation of Absolutes.

SCENT PYRAMID – The scent pyramid illustrates the various olfactory elements found in a fragrance. It consists of three sections: top notes, heart notes, and base notes.

SILLAGE – In the realm of fragrances, sillage refers to the lingering trail that a perfume leaves in the air after someone has departed from a space. This term draws its inspiration from the nautical world, where it originally described the wake or trail left behind by a boat as it effortlessly cut through the water’s surface. Just like a boat leaves its mark in the waves, a captivating fragrance leaves its sillage in the room, enchanting those who catch its aromatic trail.

SOLIFLORE – A soliflore is a scent that brings out the characteristics of a single type of flower, even though there might be other ingredients in the mix.

SYNTHETIC – Any perfume ingredient created through chemical synthesis rather than extracted from natural materials. Synthetics are commonly used as alternatives to natural ingredients that have become economically or environmentally unsustainable.

TOP NOTES – Top notes also referred to as head notes are the initial fragrant components of a perfume formulation, characterised by their molecular lightness and the first impression they create upon smelling the composition.

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